Progeny
"Stop and Smell the Flowers"
I only breed bitches who hips are OFA certified and make sure that the stud dog and his ancestors have good hips as far back in the pedigree as I can determine. This is usually 5 to 6 generations.
When I decide to breed one of my girls, great thought and research is put into it. First, the stud dog I choose must have the attributes I am looking for in order to improve and complement my bitch. First and foremost, I breed for soundness in mind and body. This means I am breeding for the healthiest possible dogs, with good sense and great working brains. I breed dogs I can live with. Health and trainability are two traits are at the top of my list of “must haves.”
Of course, we all want a good-looking dog. I also want dogs that are put together well, so they can do the jobs they were bred to do. This is a hunting breed. They should be able to cover ground effortlessly and have a nose for game. Structure is very important, and so is the nose.
I was very lucky in my early years in the breed, to have what we in the dog sport call “ a Great One.” His name was Am/Can. Ch. Harrington’s Kantankres Kyna, lovingly called “Tank.” Tank was not only a big-winning dog in the show ring, but also had it all and did it all. He had structure, soundness in both mind and body, was great looking, and had a nose for hunting. He could do Obedience, Agility, Conformation, Hunting, Tracking, or just be a couch potato.
He helped raise my daughter, and he showed my daughter at her first match. His sister, Am/Can Ch. Harrington’s Kit-N-Kaboodle, aka “Kit”, was my foundation bitch. Although not as big a winner, she was like her brother Tank in every other way. Tank and Kit are behind everything I have today. I know that Tank was a once-in-lifetime dog and I will probably never have another one like him. But he has given me the image I will always breed for.
I only breed bitches who hips are OFA certified and make sure that the stud dog and his ancestors have good hips as far back in the pedigree as I can determine. This is usually 5 to 6 generations.
My puppies are born and raised in my kitchen for the first 6 weeks of their lives. They are then introduced to my kennel and the real world. After 2 rounds of shots, I take them for car rides, to Agility Trials and Dog Shows. They attend (as spectators) classes that I teach and make great distractions for my students’ dogs. They are pretty worldly by the time they leave my home.
I don’t let my pups go to their new homes until they are 12 weeks old, because I do all the groundwork, continually exposing them to new sights, smells and sounds. They also interact with adult dogs, so they learn manners on their own. By the time they are ready for their new homes, they are crate trained, partially housebroken, and know how to sit and walk on a loose lead. They have learned to learn. This puts a stable, well-adjusted puppy with lots of experience into that new home.
I always find out what puppy buyers are looking for in their new family member. I can then match them with the puppy that best fits the family’s lifestyle and environment. I watch these puppies grow and develop and I know which personality and energy level will mesh with each household. I give a Puppy Aptitude Test (PAT)*on the puppies. This test was developed by Joachim and Wendy Volhard, and is used to determine if a puppy has any sensitivity to sound, strangers, etc. I then expose every puppy to those things needed to help each one become a stable, well-balanced family member when they leave my home
When my puppies leave here they are ready to settle in to the new family with great confidence and comfort. With the proper love, training, and care, each pup will be a great addition to any family they join
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